I woke up at 2am and started riding at 2.30am, reaching the Kelimutu parking area around 4.20am. This was early enough to beat the guard, meaning I avoided paying an entrance fee. I bought a water that come daylight I learned was an old bottle that had been refilled with dirty water – the first time I have been cheated by someone. I hiked up to the volcano’s rim and set up my camera, ready for the sunrise. After the sun had fully risen over the crater lakes, I spent a couple of hours hiking around the edge of the volcano. On the way back to the parking area I saw a troupe of monkeys, the first I have seen on this trip. I rode home to rest up after my early morning start. I have been in Watugana long enough now that I am totally comfortable in the house I am lucky to be staying in. At the beginning, and through my Western eyes, I found it easy to judge the house as a slightly makeshift structure, but I have grown to love it as a fully functional, comfortable home. Part of this change is probably due to being welcomed into such a happy family, three generations’ worth. This evening I helped pluck chickens and cook dinner.

Crater lakes of Kelimutu