Through rubber and palm oil plantations I rode as I followed a quiet road up the coast to Lang Suan. Such was the quality of roadside vegetation that I saw more ground-dwelling wildlife than on any other day. A squirrel braved a run across the road, as did a mongoose. Numerous snakes had tried and failed, with freshly run over individuals so numerous that I began to suspect locals purposely run them over. I myself almost ran over a snake, and it was most certainly alive. For a third time in as many days I saw monkeys sitting on the back of a moving scooter or in the side car of a motorbike, and today I finally realised why: they were coconut monkeys, trained to climb coconut palms and retrieve the fruit. Every now and then I would pass a beautiful house that stuck out in the rural landscape. I imagined these were the abodes of wealthy land owners raking in the money from the surrounding plantations. Lang Suan is much bigger than the one-street town I initially thought it was. I rode around for a while trying to find a hint of an accommodation offering. I asked one old man if there was a hotel nearby, but unfortunately this prompted him to give me about five minutes’ worth of instructions, all in Thai. At first I tried to say I didn’t understand, but this only seemed to motivate him, so in the end I pretended to know exactly what he was saying. He was satisfied, but I left none the wiser about where to go. I continued riding until a shout from the roadside called me into a bicycle shop. I stopped to say hello and was happy to learn that one guy spoke some English. He ended up leading me to the cheap hotel in which I am now resting a full belly, having just visited the night market for dinner.

Day 466 (pic)

Hidden wonders

Accommodation $ Hotel
Distance ridden today 121.26km
Average cycling speed 21.2kph
Total distance ridden 12,241km