To the northwest of Pokhara lies Sarankot, a hilltop village with a viewing platform from where you get a magnificent view of the Anapurnas. It took me a couple of hours to cycle there in the cool mountain air. All the while I was motivated by the clear weather, hoping it wouldn’t turn before I got there. I was lucky. Today is the clearest I have seen the mountain range in the three days it has been within sight. Though a difficult climb (and despite a 50r fee) the views from the top were well worth it. From Sarankot I continued riding west, following the advice on Wikitravel. I decided to climb even further up by visiting a paragliding launch site. I was free to walk around and film people taking off. It’s definitely something I’d love to get into one day!

Further west the dirt road passed through a beautiful area – welcoming villages and friendly people. I rode very slowly so I could take it all in. Eventually, I popped out onto the bituminised main road, from where it was a long descent home to Pokhara. I really liked the look and feel of the valley on the way back.

Just outside Pokhara, I stopped at a little fruit and vegetable shop and was delighted to be charged local prices for my horde of bananas, apples and mandarins – the cheapest price I have been charged for fresh produce during my entire time in Nepal. I then stopped off at Damoda’s place for a final meal and goodbye. It was about 4pm and I hadn’t eaten since 9am so I was starving. Back home I paid my bill and was horrified to learn my homestay were charging for the two glasses of hot water I’d had. It doesn’t change the fact that I’m getting a good deal, but still, to charge for glasses of water!

The climb

Accommodation $ Guesthouse
Distance ridden today 48.8km
Average cycling speed 12.4kph
Total distance ridden 16,373km