Thought for the day (barely audible through loud frustrated swearing): ‘There are worse places I could be feeling horrible in’. The day started out okay. I woke feeling very exhausted and was quite slow-moving as I packed up my camp in the company of donkeys and cows feeding on the grass around me. It was an easy downhill to the military post, where I stopped at the gate and waiting for a minute for someone to appear before squeezing under the metal bar and continuing on my way. From here the day deteriorated. Bad roads (loose, rocky, sandy) combined with a strong headwind made the going so tough that my average speed was lower than yesterday, despite the fact I had no mountain pass to cross. I soon realised my hopes of reaching Langar today were dashed. I ate the last of my proper lunch stuff yesterday (bread, tomatoes and cucumbers), so I was left with just oat bars and mixed fruit and almonds to keep me going. Despite having food in my belly, my energy levels continued to decline. I looked forward to making camp and getting a hot meal in me, but today became one of those days that I couldn’t get my stove going, no matter what I did. I even took the whole thing apart and cleaned it. I have absolutely no idea why it sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t. When I admitted defeat, I swore loudly and threw my bag of pasta in the tent in a moment of rage. The bag burst open and sprayed penne everywhere. The wind is picking up and blasting dust under the fly and into the tent. I ate the last of my oats for dinner, so unless I get my stove going in the morning and cook some pasta, then I have very little food to get me through tomorrow. To make things even worse, somehow my phone has deleted all the Maps.me maps I had downloaded, so now I can’t navigate as well as I would like. It will be some days yet before I have a chance to get the maps back. As I lay in bed, I can’t help but feel that my body is very nearly beaten. But, as I said, there are worse places to be feeling horrible in.

Pushing on

Accommodation Free-camp
Distance ridden today 39.64km
Average cycling speed 7.9kph
Total distance ridden 20,090km