Ahhh to wake up and not have to pack up a tent, and to have a hot shower on demand, and to not even touch the bike for a day. I treated myself to a guesthouse breakfast before formalising my to-do list and beginning to tick things off. After some time on the internet I washed my clothes, then went for an adventure down the hill into town. I visited the tourist information centre where I had expected to be able to pick up a map of the Pamirs, but none were free and none gave me more information than what I have on Maps.me. The adjacent park area was beautiful and it was great to be amongst the summer holiday vibe as kids were running amok around the public swimming pool. I visited two cafes to eat, enjoying a beef burger at the first (8s, AU$1.20) and something whose name I forget at the second – a plate of pasta-like sheets layered under a tomato and cucumber salad, all soaked in a creamy, oily sauce (12s, AU$1.80). My next stop was a T-Mobile shop where I enquired about the fact that I can’t get my SIM working. It turns out the SIM has been blocked, which was the risk I took when I received the it from Anne in China. I lost AU$2 in the process, but not to worry. Tomorrow I will try and get a new SIM from Megafon so I can have some freedom to access the internet during my final few weeks in Tajikistan. Back at home (after stopping off at a little shop for a cola drink and mars bar) I raided some fruit trees for apricots and mulberries before scrubbing my cooking pots and removing the grottiness (sweat, dirt and possibly algae) from my drinking bottle cap. In the evening I returned to the café I visited last night and shocked them when I said I’d have all three dishes that they serve, plus bread. Thus, in addition to soup, two big pieces of fresh bread and the chicken/fried potato dish, I also had six meat-filled dumplings. It was a perfect night to overdo it, so I couldn’t help myself visiting the adjacent shop for an ice-cream afterwards. With WIFI not working at the Lodge, I lay in the public area for a while thinking about all sorts of things to the sound of strong wind rushing through the trees.

Arriving in Khorog yesterday

Accommodation $ Lodge
Distance ridden today 0km
Total distance ridden 20,343km