Finally I feel well and truly ready to leave this place and challenge myself physically again. It’s a nice feeling. Today I managed to break all recent records for laziness. Besides heading outside for breakfast and to say bye to Tim, I remained cocooned in my room until about 5pm, when I panicked with the realisation I hadn’t done anything I was meant to do today. Instead, I had spent the majority of my time writing answers to a journalist’s questions for our impending newspaper article about my journey. From 5pm I have been in a bit of rush. I washed my cycling clothes, which have been festering in the corner of my room since I arrived. I realigned by eccentric bottom bracket so the new belt I fitted to my bike yesterday runs straight. I pumped up my tyres. I took a leap of faith and purchased a new bike seat, praying that its delivery to a hostel in Dushanbe proceeds without a hitch. I progressed my order for a new belt and sprocket system with Gates. I waited patiently for another reply from AfterShokz that never came. I monitored a stream of Whatsapp messages between a fellow group of cyclists travelling in Tajikistan, waiting on news about whether the overnight landslide is blocking bicycle access along the northern route between Kalai Khumb and Dushanbe. With the southern route also experiencing blockages due to landslides, there has been some concern that there is no road access at all between the two locations. I think road access is still blocked for vehicles, but bicycles are apparently managing to get through. I ate a rushed dinner (which was disappointingly small) before rushing into the main street and raiding a bunch of shops for fresh food supplies to cover me for the next couple of days. On my return home, I tried treating a bunch of water to carry on the bike, but became incredibly disappointed to learn that my Steripen water purifier has stopped working, its pattern of LED lights telling me that the lamp has failed and needs replacing. I emailed Steripen thinking I am eligible for a free replacement through their Premium Lamp Life Pledge; however, I since realised that this is only applicable if my lamp reached the end of its life rather than failing altogether. I should get a reply anyway telling me what the next step is regarding lamp replacement, although I suspect it would mean the annoying prospect of sending the thing off for repair. Whatever the case, I am without a UV light to clean the water I collect from streams as I continue my way through Tajikistan. I do have some Micropur tablets, but as they have been crammed in my first aid kit for two years, the packaging has started to corrode and many of the tablets have become useless. I have just collected my clothes, which dried quickly in the warm night air and I have packed my bags as much as is practical. My bum is still painfully blistered, so I am a little worried about returning to the bike, but as I alluded to in the beginning, staying any longer in Kalai Khumb is now out of the question.

Kalai Khumb

Accommodation $ Guesthouse
Distance ridden today 0km
Total distance ridden 20,590km